#INDIA INK STAIN WOOD HOW TO#

I don't know any part time techs who periodically do finish work that sand between coats or do finish sanding. When coats are complete the item should be able to go straight to the buffer - in a worst case scenario 20 minutes or so of finish wet sanding starting with nothing rougher than 1500 might be needed, but anything more serious and there's a basic problem with the application. There also should be no need for 'finish sanding'. If the coating system is uneven not enough practice application was done and technique was not refined - that's a 'defect' that shouldn't occur and is irrelevant. The only 'imperfections' removed by sanding are tiny runs, if any. The last clear coat can be applied slightly thicker as a 'flow' coat - but no sanding should be done between coats.

Sanding between coats will not 'remove' application inconsistencies and can introduce contaminants into the system.Īpplied properly in thin coats lacquer is self-leveling. Lacquer melts into itself (whether color or clear) building a single coat of lacquer with indistinguishable divisions. You do not sand between lacquer coats except for sanding sealers and sandable primers. Watco, like Mohawk, Behlens and Rust-Oleum (all made by the same company - RPM) dries in 30-60 minutes.Īnd 'imperfections' are NEVER sanded. Only Colortone and Deft among commonly available lacquers require extended dry times dues to high naphtha content. There is no point to having aa properly applied coat of conventional lacquer dry for 'a few hours'. But if that's not practical, let it dry at LEAST 3-4 weeks, as even light coats of tung oil leach out to the surface for that long - then wipe it down with naphtha (the only solvent that leaves NO residue) and a Tac cloth. So again, at this point there's not much to say other than duplicate your tung oil coated body - and realistically you should wait 8 months before continuing the test if you want to have a pretty solid idea of how things will work. It seerves no useful purpose at all and just causes problems. There's actually no reason to do that at all. You might get lucky, you might not - but the lesson here is never apply anything as a 'hold' coating unless you know exactly what you are doing. You'll jut have to try the same thing on some scrap pine and see what results you get. It's going to change the penetration and adhesion properties of anything applied over it Even a 'thin' coat of tung oil can penetrate 1/8' or more into some areas of pine, and stain penetration will likely be severly limited - you can't sand to 'bare wood'. coating with tung oil was not a good idea. Practice, perfect - then do the actual job. You can also refine your technique to ensure the best possible results.

#INDIA INK STAIN WOOD HOW TO#

Don't work eon the body 'cold' or you'll have no idea what to expect or how to deal with issues if they occur. Make SURE you test the entire system by applying it to some scrap pine before starting on the actual body. There should be NO stickiness problem.i Generally that is caused by either contamination in the coating, application of incompatible products or sap leaching out of the wood (which is prevented by using sanding sealer - another reason for it). This helps get a nice, smooth feel and an even sheen - without it the finish will penetrate the stain unevenly and a satin finish will be dead flat in some areas. And with pine (and fir) this is critical when uing stains or dyes.Īs far as a 'sealer' over the stain, it's not a 'sealer' - it's a 'finish' - although it's usually recommended to apply another coat of sanding sealer after staining (each coat of sanding sealer is lightly sanded smooth). The sanding sealer - NOT shellac or thinned varnish, which some people use (but do not contain the correct types of clear 'filler pigments') is what makes this possible by slowing things down. If any areas look too light - also common with pine, which does not stain consistently - you can apply more stain in those areas and blend the edges. Pine sucks up stain like a sponge, and without sanding sealer there's little hope of any control over color. This is what prevents blotchiness and helps blend color between different wood sections (like the very light piece near the output jack). You use a solvent dampened cloth to wipe areas starting to go too dark and 'pull' the color out. This keeps the stain from penetrating too fast and the color going too deep before you can stop it. First, if you want consistent color you should apply a brushable sanding sealer *before* you apply the stain.

India ink stain wood